Winter at The Backyard Pharmacy at Maison Bleue
After 6 months of dry conditions some rain has revived the parched garden at Maison Bleue. Its the time of year for tidying, replenishing and planting for winter crops. Many of these crops now going in are in the mustard family – so red cabbage, romanescu cauliflower (for the looks as much as anything), Brussels sprouts, broccolini, bok choy, garlic, cavolo nero, red kale, more rocket and mustard (pictured in seedling form). I learned about the usefulness of mustard from East Timorese gardeners at the Richmond housing estate community garden at Highett st, where they grew large quantities and proceeded to dry, ferment and preserve it for winter use and manage to eke out several crops in quick succession.
The Girls have a penchant for brassicas – they will strip them if they can get into the garden beds – so in the face of a losing battle to keep them out a major upgrade to fence off The Backyard Pharmacy is underway – leaving them the rest of the acre to scratch away to their hearts’ content. In addition there are wire cages protecting mustard plants growing in their yard that will be a rotating green pick for times when they have a day at home.
You can use mustard much as you would other leafy greens with a reasonably strong flavour. You can also find a nice mustard green and olive combo in oil in Vietnamese supermarkets.
All purpose cheesy greens filling.
1 cup blanched warragul greens, chopped
1 cup blanched mustard leaves, chopped
1 small brown onion/2 shallots/1/2 small leek chopped
Olive oil
Garlic at least 1 clove
Nutmeg, a good sprinkle, preferably freshly grated
Salt and pepper
1 egg
250 gms ricotta cheese
100 grams crumbled feta
1/3 cup grated parmesan
Lightly cook onion and garlic in olive oil. Add greens and cook for a few minutes on low temperature. Meanwhile combine cheeses, egg, spices and any fresh herbs you like that are available chopped and added to taste.
This blend is one I use for making various sizes and shapes of filo pastries, from one long roll curled in a cake tin and baked, or a strudel type length, individual parcels (using 3 sheets of filo) or narrow cigarello shaped filos for lunches. I also use it to fill cannelloni tubes and top with my home made passata to bake. You can vary the ratio of greens to cheesiness depending on whats in the garden or your fridge.
Revival of the communal table – where everyone has a place
The communal table. A melting pot of health and social inclusion was the title of a paper I presented recently at the Symposium of Australian Gastronomy. It fitted with the theme of The Generous Table and the focus on food and culture of the symposium. My reflections centred on the fact that food is meant to nourish us, being a powerful way to create a sense of place. It can also help develop the vital relationships and social intimacy that many of us can be fortunate to share with those we love.
The revival in popularity in dining at the communal table reflects the rapid change in Australian society, the café culture and a more connected and engaged community, according to some.
Historically the Incas, Greeks, Britons and French were famed for a more egalitarian manner of dining and in the last century communal meals and public eating houses and factory and railway dining were part of an informal economy where often times strangers took their place at table to share a meal. Cultural traditions such as the Indian langars, free kitchens, provide meals for all and also are a means of fostering inclusiveness and at the same time removing caste barriers.
Starting with covered markets in the tenth century, food has often been the focus of public health initiatives. Closer to home some governments have a history of innovation in supporting healthy eating, such as the Victorian Department of Human Services’ Community Gardens Program. Similarly pilot community kitchens in Victoria were a concept recognised as a successful preventative health initiative and a means of bringing people together, particularly when on limited incomes, to address social and nutritional needs.
Community kitchens are now being trailed on public housing estates, such as the Atherton Melting Pot project in Fitzroy, providing the opportunity for a range of activities from cooking classes, seasonal cook ups, community programs and cultural feasts.
Community lunches are also popular and in places such as Castlemaine the weekly $3 lunch provided by the Community House’s Growing Abundance Harvest Project caters for up to 100 people, happy to meet and chat over donated fresh fruit and vegies that have been transformed by volunteer chefs.
We have the knowledge, skills and enthusiasm to reposition gastronomic activities in the community and particularly to find a place at the table for those who are marginalised and unrepresented. Nutritional intake can be matched with socially meaningful arrangements as a preventative health tool par excellence. A progressive attitude by local, state and federal governments could see regional food plans, with local food policies and the formation of local food policy councils to oversee Local Community Food Initiatives. One specific focus would be on communal tables and better use of facilities throughout the country that could be reconfigured as community kitchens.
We can remake cities in a more food and health conscious way, enabling conviviality by eating together while at the same time remaking our local towns and cities by making better use of the public realm. Dining together is the key.