The communal table. A melting pot of health and social inclusion was the title of a paper I presented recently at the Symposium of Australian Gastronomy. It fitted with the theme of The Generous Table and the focus on food and culture of the symposium. My reflections centred on the fact that food is meant to nourish us, being a powerful way to create a sense of place. It can also help develop the vital relationships and social intimacy that many of us can be fortunate to share with those we love.
The revival in popularity in dining at the communal table reflects the rapid change in Australian society, the café culture and a more connected and engaged community, according to some.
Historically the Incas, Greeks, Britons and French were famed for a more egalitarian manner of dining and in the last century communal meals and public eating houses and factory and railway dining were part of an informal economy where often times strangers took their place at table to share a meal. Cultural traditions such as the Indian langars, free kitchens, provide meals for all and also are a means of fostering inclusiveness and at the same time removing caste barriers.
Starting with covered markets in the tenth century, food has often been the focus of public health initiatives. Closer to home some governments have a history of innovation in supporting healthy eating, such as the Victorian Department of Human Services’ Community Gardens Program. Similarly pilot community kitchens in Victoria were a concept recognised as a successful preventative health initiative and a means of bringing people together, particularly when on limited incomes, to address social and nutritional needs.
Community kitchens are now being trailed on public housing estates, such as the Atherton Melting Pot project in Fitzroy, providing the opportunity for a range of activities from cooking classes, seasonal cook ups, community programs and cultural feasts.
Community lunches are also popular and in places such as Castlemaine the weekly $3 lunch provided by the Community House’s Growing Abundance Harvest Project caters for up to 100 people, happy to meet and chat over donated fresh fruit and vegies that have been transformed by volunteer chefs.
We have the knowledge, skills and enthusiasm to reposition gastronomic activities in the community and particularly to find a place at the table for those who are marginalised and unrepresented. Nutritional intake can be matched with socially meaningful arrangements as a preventative health tool par excellence. A progressive attitude by local, state and federal governments could see regional food plans, with local food policies and the formation of local food policy councils to oversee Local Community Food Initiatives. One specific focus would be on communal tables and better use of facilities throughout the country that could be reconfigured as community kitchens.
We can remake cities in a more food and health conscious way, enabling conviviality by eating together while at the same time remaking our local towns and cities by making better use of the public realm. Dining together is the key.
