The saltbush seedlings we planted some years back at Maison Bleue have grown into huge and beautiful shrubs, a picturesque windbreak and source of many pretty flower arrangements. But it is their edible nature that is of primary interest.

Also known as Cabbage Saltbush, Old Man Saltbush is a native plant that thrives in dry climates, and with leaves containing up to 28% salt making it an increasingly useful plant with climate change. Its multiple uses extend to hedges, windbreaks and firebreaks as well as being a tasty animal fodder. The salty leaves were traditionally cooked for food and were also applied as a medicine to cuts and stings. It was taken by early settlers to treat scurvy and blood diseases.

It contains a range of minerals, including calcium and magnesium, antioxidants, Vitamin E and is high in protein. The large fresh or blanched Saltbush leaves can be used as a wrap around meat, fish or tofu, as a leafy bed for grilled meat or vegetables or stir fried with garlic, ginger and soy. It can be used in salads and even battered and cooked tempura style. The dried Saltbush flakes are a wonderful addition to bread, grills and pasta and can be added to sea salt as a seasoning rub for meats. It can be grown in a pot. It’s a hardy plant with multiple uses.

Baked tofu in a Saltbush blanket

250g firm tofu

1 tablespoon sesame oil

2 tablespoons tamari sauce
3 tablespoons Shaoxing wine
½ teaspoon dried ginger
6 star anise – crushed a bit with mortar and pestle and placed in a small muslin bag tied with string
Place the liquid ingredients plus ginger and muslin bag of star anise in a small saucepan and warm gently for a few minutes but don’t boil. Pour the liquid over the tofu and add the muslin bag to the container to steep further. Marinate for a couple of hours. Pick several small branches of Old Man Saltbush. Break into small flexible branches and place half on aluminium foil. Place marinated tofu on top and cover with equal amount of branches. Pour remaining marinade over tofu. Seal with another piece of foil over the top to make a sealed parcel. Place on baking dish (alternatively a casserole dish with a well sealed lid can be used) and cook at 180 degrees for 1 hour. Remove from oven and unwrap. Removing the steamed saltbush leaves. The product is a delicately fragrant baked tofu that can be sliced and placed on a bowl or plate as a base for other additions. You can top with your favourite stir fry. A mix of homegrown broccoli, leafy greens, mushrooms, mung bean sprouts, spring onion and sliced ginger in an oyster sauce was delicious. Any leftover tofu can be sliced finely and added to a broth (chicken, vegetable or miso) in which a small handful of green bean thread noodles have been cooked for a couple of minutes. Topped with a sliced spring onion, a small handful of mung bean sprouts, chopped coriander and a small sliced fresh chilli, it makes a terrific second meal.